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| The first wave I ever caught |
I never developed
any sense of fear of the ocean, not even when surfing and getting dragged under
in the impact zone which put many of my friends off for life. The thing is; I love it. And you're only going to last
so long if you're not really in love with it because you're going to nearly
die, you're going to see bad things happen and people get scared out of it
pretty quick.
The ocean presents one of the most significant challenges between man and nature, so you have to really love it or you're not going to last long. In a somewhat perverse way, the closer you are to death, the more alive you feel.
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| Duck dive |
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