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Tuesday, 18 February 2014

Why I surf...

I’ve often thought how ironic it is that what could keep me dead, keeps me alive. I think I was expecting to die, instead the salt water washed away my sins, and set my soul free; a mermaid without a tail.

You can’t drown me now; I learned how to drown myself and I’d rather choke on ocean foam than swim
 in strangers’ beds, I’d rather
 break my board than break my spine
, under the weight of loving someone who isn’t mine.

I used to think that snow looked pretty until the sun savaged my skin and the reef bled me dry. The wind stopped howling evil words in my ear and whispered stories on how to love myself.

I still don’t know how to swim, I’m barely
 floating on the surface. All I know is; I am nothing
 out of the ocean and I
 lost myself at sea. Don’t find me; don’t try to find me. I’m not afraid of drowning, I’m not afraid of wiping out. Not anymore.

The sea monsters are my friends.There is a liberation to be found when I escape to breathe out of white water,
 the same element electrifying my bloodstream
; slapping me awake from this stoic reverie called human existence, societal routine. Give me
 a shot of adrenaline, a dose of liquid summer. We are high on the drugs of life and my GOODNESS it feels good to be addicted. May the ocean meet the sky to remind me I am alive, and then maybe I’ll come crawling back to shoreafter one last wave. One more. Maybe. What else is there to say?





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